The ultimate guide to Hoang Su Phi – Best rice terraces, activities & more

Before appearing on the travel map, Hoang Su Phi is only famous for its difficult life, mysterious culture, and for the second-highest mountain in Vietnam – Tay Con Linh. But for the last 5 years, it becomes one of the most attractive places for travelers, especially on September to October when the rice terraces are most beautiful. With tourism booming here, it becomes more accessible for tourists with better services and infrastructure. Now, Hoang Su Phi is the best place for rice terraces, exciting trekking tours, the most professional tour guides in Ha Giang, and a perfect visit for the Ha Giang motorbike loop.

In fact, it’s the first name coming into my mind when asked where to go in the post-pandemic. After months grounded at home, people need to recharge with jaw-dropping sceneries, a bit of exotic local experience, and challenging adventure activities. And also, since Hoang Su Phi is not touristy, it’s a perfect choice.

Hoang Su Phi Vietnam facts: Located in the upper western part of Ha Giang province, it was one of the hardest places to reach in Vietnam. The name “Hoang Su Phi” - “the upper mountain covered by the yellow bark tree” - speaks for itself.  

How to get from Hanoi to Hoang Su Phi?

As there’s no airport and train station in Hoang Su Phi and Ha Giang, there’s are three ways to get here: local public bus, private car and motorcycle.

Googling “travel to Hoang Su Phi by bus”, “how to get to Hoang Su Phi” or “travel to Hoang Su Phi by motorcycle”, you will get plenty of options. But I recommended traveling by either private car or motorcycle to maximize your experiences.

By motorbike

You can take a public bus from Hanoi to Ha Giang. The best way is to choose the sleeper bus which daily starts around 8 – 9 pm from My Dinh bus station. The bus would arrive in Ha Giang city at around 5 am in the early morning. From Ha Giang, you can rent a motorcycle to go to Hoang Su Phi. You had better rent a motorcycle in advance so it’s ready when you are arriving at the bus station. The price would be around 150.000 VND (6.6 US$) per day for less than 150cc motorcycle, and 200.000 VND (8.9 US$) and for manual gear motorcycle (recommended this one for skilled driver). Remember to ask for the fulfilled gas tank and carefully check the bike condition before you go. The helmet is a must, and a hotline is also strongly recommended.

There’re 2 different ways for you to go:

1. From Ha Giang city, go back to National highway #2 and make a turn at Provincial Road 177 DT to go to Hoang Su Phi.
2. From Ha Giang, make a turn to Thanh Thuy border gate and passing through the Tay Con Linh road to get to Hoang Su Phi.
   Both are suitable for skilled drivers who have experience traveling by motorcycle in Vietnam. Not recommend to drive in rainy season (from July to September).

The homestays and accomodations in Hoang Su Phi has parking lots available for motorbike and the road are mostly suitable for motorcycles to explore.

With private car to Hoang Su Phi, you can book a rental car service in Hanoi with your hotel, but I strongly recommended you to book a prive tour with car to go here. It would take 6 hours to go to Hoang Su Phi, the road condition are good and sometimes bumpy; but it’s enjoyable in general. The biggest bus can access is 45-seat buses.

What is the best time to visit Hoang Su Phi?

In general, the best time to visit Hoang Su Phi is from September to October due to the jaw-dropping scenery of the rice terrace. But trust me, it is worth to vitsit all year around. Different times, different experiences. And since not many people get a chance to choose the time to visit Hoang Su Phi. So I would like to point out Hoang Su Phi best highlights in different seasons.

From February to April : Culture and festival.

It’s the beginning of the lunar year and the new crop season. You can have a chance to enjoy the rich traditional life of Dzao people, Tay people and Nung people, engage in meaningful ceremonies and joyful dances. Most festivals are organized at this time with the local’s wishes for a happy new year and a new bumper crop.

You can join any party you can come across on the road, drink with the local men drinking while watching women gathering up under colorful umbrellas with shy smiles. Children playing their traditional games, the young dances to find lovers. When the party ends, you can catch an interesting sight of drunken men sleeping on the road side while their wife sitting next, covering them up with her umbrellas.

It’s like coming back to 20 years ago when life is less hectic. Not to mention beautiful peach and plum flowers covered up the villages, giving the mountainous scenery a dreamy and youthful vibe.

From April to June: The magnificient mirror of Hoang Su Phi

This time, local people start to fill up water into their farm in order to plant the water rice on their terrace. The whole area becomes a huge mirror which is probably one of the most magnificent things to savor.

From July to September : The green canvas of Hoang Su Phi

This time, the rice starts to grow. Hoang Su Phi becomes a green canvas of young rice sketching from farms to forests.

This is the hottest time in Summer. But due to its topography covered up by mountains and Hoang Su Phi itself is also an upper highland. So the temperature is normally less than Hanoi and Ha Giang city about 3 – 4°C (37-39 °F). It’s perfect for you to hide away from the dust, the humidity, and insufferable tropical city heat.

Visiting Hoang Su Phi from September to October : the yellow paradise

The rice terrace starts to turn yellow – it’s time to harvest. To capture this, you have to visit from September to the last half of October. It’s a wonderful moment to have a cup of morning coffee at a homestay on the mountain top, enjoying the yellow paradise in hazy clouds.

But this is the time people coming the most. So I recommend you to come on a Hoang Su Phi private tour and not go on the weekends. On weekdays, you can have the whole area for yourself while staying stay out of the crowds.

From October to February : Best time for jungle trek in Hoang Su Phi

As I’ve mentioned, this district is also famous for having the second-highest mountain in Viet Nam – the Tay Con Linh at 2,419m high. The late fall and early wintertime in Vietnam are ideal for trekking. Since it’s not as hot as summer but not as cold as winter. Also, the whole forest becomes a marvelous picture of trees turning red and gold, clouds covering the mountains and rustic villages hiding under the forests. There’s not much rain and it’s safe to go into the jungle. So if you always want to challenge the peak. This is the time to pack up your gear and do a jungle trek.

5 best places to enjoy rice terraces in Hoang Su Phi

Hoang Su Phi now is most famous for the beauty of its rice terraces. But actually, there are 5 different places to come and enjoy the marvelous scenery. Here are the 5 best rice terraces:

1 of 5

Ban Phung

Located close to the border belt between Vietnam and China; Phung village lies on the edge of the hills while facing beautiful rice terraces. This is considered the highest rice terrace in Vietnam.

2 of 5

Ban Luoc

Luoc village is lying under the mountain; not so high and easy to access. Due to its topography, the rice terrace in Ban Luoc is wide and long; and you can easily come and talk to local people farming on the field.

3 of 5

Ho Thau

Belongs to the Red Dzao ethnic group, the Ho Thau village has a different style compared to the rest of the areas. The local Red Dzao has a unique farming technique. For each farm, they will leave a piece of land to be the forest. They believe if do so, the farm will be protected from landslides or floods. And time goes by, it is proved that they’re true. The terraced fields here are wide and mixed of rice fields and green forests.

4 of 5

Thong Nguyen

This is one of the best places to enjoy the breathtaking view of Hoang Su Phi. The best spot to take pictures is very easy to access. It is located on the provincial road from Bac Quang district to Hoang Su Phi, at kilometer # 23.

Where to stay in Thong Nguyen: Hoang Su Phi lodge

5 of 5

Nam Ty

The rice terrace here is located on the same spot as Thong Nguyen rice terrace. It is recognized as the national landscape heritage. The rice terrace in Nam Ty belongs to the Red Dzao people. So it could be quite similar to the rice terrace in Ho Thau.

5 best accommodations in Hoang Su Phi

Becoming one of the hottest growing destinations, there are plenty of choices to stay in Hoang Su Phi. In general, homestays and lodges here are fully booked on the weekend, especially from September to October. So if you plan to visit during these times, please make a reservation in advance. The accommodation can be listed into 3 categories: Homestays, guesthouse, and lodge. The services are good in general, with good food and comfortable and clean beds. The host can hardly speak English, but they keep a friendly and warm-hearted spirit. So you can be very satisfied with the services here.

Below are 5 best places to stay in Hoang Su Phi:

Ecolodge Panhou Village

This is one of the 1st accommodations in Hoang Su Phi. The Ecolodge Panhou village is famous for its nice designs, views and professional services. Friendly staff, the room is clean and comfy.

Hoang Su Phi Lodge

Breathtaking location overlooking the rice terraces. You will stay in the natural-friendly bungalows made of bamboo. Hoang Su Phi ecolodge offers you an authentic insight into rural life in the region, as well as the most luxurious experience. The staffs speak English and Vietnamese, are well-trained and nice. The foods are excellent.

And there’s a swimming pool with an infinitive view to the rice terrace that you might fall in love.

Su Phi Cbt in Ban Luoc

It belongs to a community-based tourism project. You can live with the host family. They will offer you good food, a nice view and a friendly atmosphere from the community around.

Dao homestay

The homestay is located in the middle of the rice terrace. Thus not only see but you can also be a part of the charming scenery. The house has a great view, with a window straight from the bed; and they have an amazing breakfast and excellent dinner from a friendly host. You surely will love this.

Nam Ly homestay

It is located on a hill in front of terraced rice fields, the homestay offers a breathtaking view. It stays out of the crowd. Also, the hosts are very friendly and helpful.

Interesting things to do in Hoang Su Phi?

As I’ve mentioned before, this land is not only famous for its majestic rice terrace but also for its beautiful nature and topography. So there are so many activities you can choose to join. Below are what I recommended:

Enjoy the hike between villages

There are different villages for you to discover. You can easily book with the homestay but I recommend you to find a professional travel agency for the best experiences in Hoang Su Phi.

Hiking here can be very flexible with different durations and challenges. You can go from 1,2,3 day of hiking to 7 days of hiking. The best time to do it is from September to October, but the other time of the year is also a good choice.

Normally I suggest you get on a 3-day hiking trip from Ban Phung to the surrounding villages. This is the most common plan for hiking.

Jungle trekking and conquer the peak

Hoang Su Phi can be recognized as the best place for trekking in Vietnam. Because when you do a trekking tour, you are not only enjoying the scenery but also get local-touch experience. From villages to villages, the local people are very friendly. They are excited to invite you into their house, seek hands, talking and even drinking.

There are 2 mountains for you to do the trekking, with varieties of time: from 2 days to 5 days. Tay Con Linh mountain is the 2nd-highest mountain in Vietnam. With an altitude of 2,417 m, to the local La Chi ethnic community, Tay Con Linh summit is sacred. The second is Chieu Lau Thi with an altitude of 2.402 m.

The best time to do the trekking is in dry season ( from October to February).

Here’s some helpful Hoang Su Phi information:

• Bring enough water and food supply.
• Temperation changes very quickly. It could be very hot in day but very cold at night.
• Poisoned snakes could be met on the way trekking. So be careful.
• Sunscreen, raincoat, insect repellants, first-aid kit is a must.
• Bring cash, it’s very hard to find ATM here.
• Book services in advance : accomodations, transportation, guides…

If you are not too sure about the itinerary, you should work with a professional travel agent.

Visit the weekend markets

Hoang Su Phi is also popular for its rich traditions and unique ethnic groups which can hardly be found anywhere in the world. The weekend market is one of the best symbols for the culture.

The market is held at the weekend in the district center and along a few kilometers of the provincial road at Quang Vinh commune. Not only do local people trade their products but they celebrate a sort of weekly festival: men drinking, women chatting & youths meeting lovers.

In the past, people from the faraway villages ( Ban Phung village for example) have to depart in the middle of the night to come here. But today, as infrastructure is getting better so they can start around 4-5 am.

Unique experiences in Hoang Su Phi weekend market

They will wear their most beautiful clothes, and go with their husband or wife. When arriving at the market, they quickly find their place. People here attend markets every week so they tend to know everyone. It doesn’t matter where they are from or which ethnic group they belong to. They are considered to be in one community when comes to the market.

You can find everything in the market from local farming products like vegetables and chickens to necessary groceries: batteries, light and even needles. Even when the local people have no need for such these things, they still go here for the mere purpose of socializing.

The most interesting part is the drinking quarter. You will love the local foods with the local atmosphere. No matter how different you are, be it rich or poor, foreigner or Vietnamese, you will find yourself sitting in a group, listen to stories they are telling; and enjoy like a local person.  This is my most favorite part of visiting the markets.

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